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Art Nouveau Watches

ART NOUVEAU STYLE

Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.

Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.

The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.

Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.

This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.

In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.

Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.

Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.

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Period: 19th Century
Style: Art Nouveau
Waltham Yellow Gold Filled Open Faced Pocket Watch with Enamel Dial from 1897
Located in Long Beach, CA
FACTORY / HOUSE: Waltham Watch Company STYLE / REFERENCE: Open Faced Pocket Watch METAL / MATERIAL: 14Kt. Yellow Gold Filled CIRCA / YEAR: 1897 DIMENSIONS / ...
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1890s North American Antique Art Nouveau Watches

Art Nouveau Antique Gold Diamond Lapel Pocket Watch
Located in New York, NY
Antique Art Nouveau 18k gold pocket watch, high relief case, decorated with diamonds. Case is 23mm in diameter. With porcelain dial and original filigree hands. Suspended on a 14k gold Nouveau floral...
Category

19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Watches

Materials

Diamond, Gold

J.W. Benson Sterling Silver Half Hunters Case Pocket Watch, circa 1890s
Located in Long Beach, CA
FACTORY / HOUSE: J.W.Benson London STYLE / REFERENCE: Half Hunters Case METAL / MATERIAL: Sterling Silver CIRCA: 1890's DIMENSIONS: Diameter 39mm MOVEMENT / CALIBER: Manual Winding / 13 Jewels DIAL / HANDS: Original Kiln Fired Enamel with Roman Numerals / Original Blued Steel Hands WARRANTY: 18 months on the movement. LIFETIME SERVICE COMMITMENT This great looking and all original pocket watch was produced by the legendary house of J.W. Benson. They were the jewelers to the royal family and everything they produced was made of the finest materials and craftsmanship. The cover is engraved and filled with enamel and fired in a furnace. The original dial is in flawless condition without any chips or hairlines and was also fired in a furnace. The movement is high grade and produced in Switzerland for Benson and the case is hallmarked with English stamps...
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1890s Swiss Antique Art Nouveau Watches

French Art Nouveau Watch Pendant
Located in New Orleans, LA
This beautiful French watch pendant features a sublime, organic floral motif indicative of Art Nouveau jewelry design. Crafted of 18K gold, this elegant timepiece is enveloped in graceful angel...
Category

19th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Watches

Materials

Diamond, Enamel, 18k Gold

J.W. Benson Sterling Silver Half Hunters Case Pocket Watch, circa 1890s
Located in Long Beach, CA
FACTORY / HOUSE: J.W.Benson London STYLE / REFERENCE: Half Hunters Case METAL / MATERIAL: Sterling Silver CIRCA: 1890's DIMENSIONS: Diameter 39mm MOVEMENT / CALIBER: Manual Winding / 13 Jewels DIAL / HANDS: Original Kiln Fired Enamel with Roman Numerals / Original Blued Steel Hands WARRANTY: 18 months on the movement. LIFETIME SERVICE COMMITMENT This great looking and all original pocket watch was produced by the legendary house of J.W. Benson. They were the jewelers to the royal family and everything they produced was made of the finest materials and craftsmanship. The cover is engraved and filled with enamel and fired in a furnace. The original dial is in flawless condition without any chips or hairlines and was also fired in a furnace. The movement is high grade and produced in Switzerland for Benson and the case is hallmarked with English stamps...
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1890s Swiss Antique Art Nouveau Watches

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Previously Available Items
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1890s American Antique Art Nouveau Watches

Silver Keywind Pendant Watch with Cartouche Silver and Enamel Dial 1880's
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Late 19th Century Swiss Antique Art Nouveau Watches

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Located in New Orleans, LA
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19th Century American Antique Art Nouveau Watches

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Patek Philippe 18 Karat Solid Gold Wristwatch, circa 1890s
Located in Long Beach, CA
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Located in Long Beach, CA
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