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Art Nouveau Jewelry

ART NOUVEAU STYLE

Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.

Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.

The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.

Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.

This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.

In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.

Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.

Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.

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Period: 1940s
Style: Art Nouveau
Georg Jensen & Wendel Denmark Acorn Sterling 2pc Fish Serving Set #14715
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Sterling silver 2pc fish serving set in the Acorn pattern by Georg Jensen. The Acorn pattern was introduced in 1915 as a collaboration between Georg Jensen and designer Johan Ronde....
Category

1940s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Silver, Sterling Silver

Old gold ring with sapphire, mid 20th century.
Located in Chorzów, PL
Antique white gold ring with natural sapphire. Origin: Italy, mid-20th century. The sophisticated, openwork form of the ring made of 0.750 white gold beautifully highlights and con...
Category

1940s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Sapphire, Gold, White Gold

Vintage GEORG JENSEN Sterling Silver Floral Bracelet Circa 1940's
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Georg Jensen bracelet, a sterling silver masterpiece featuring six exquisite floral motif sections with a slide hook lock mechanism. Georg Jensen's renowned craftsmanship shi...
Category

1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Silver, Sterling Silver

Early Renoir MidCentury Copper Stylized Tulip 18 Link Choker Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
Without a post-1955 copyright symbol and with the brand's earliest script signature, this likely late 1940s signed Renoir shiny copper choker necklace features 18 links each stylized as a tulip flowerhead in a modernized bolder Art Nouveau style. The American jewelry company's exclusive durable "Copron" finishing on the top of the links prevents tarnishing and fingerprints. The functional tiny linear links and the reverse side of the necklace were meant to remain blackened, while a black signature is impressed on the underside of the fold-over clasp. Comparatively without the additional enamel decoration of the company's post-1952 jewelry line signed Matisse...
Category

1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Copper

Jensen & Wendel Denmark Acorn Sterling Handle Stainless Blade Cake Knife #14714
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Sterling silver handle stainless blade cake knife in the Acorn pattern by Georg Jensen. The Acorn pattern was introduced in 1915 as a collaboration between Georg Jensen and designer...
Category

1940s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Silver, Sterling Silver

MiriamHaskell WWII Era FrankHess GoldGiltCast Filigree Butterfly Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
A child of the Art Nouveau period, Miriam Haskell loved its butterfly design-motifs, which are found in many pieces of costume jewelry by her first designer Frank Hess. His butterfly...
Category

1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal, Base Metal

Vintage 18kt yellow Gold Brooch with old diamonds
Located in AMSTERDAM, NL
The brooch is made of 18 KT yellow gold and set with 2 pieces of rose cut diamonds totaling approx. 0.12 crt I/SI Grade 18 kt: hallmarked 750 Sizes of the brooch: 5.5cm*3.5cm Weight:...
Category

1940s European Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Gold Diamond Earrings, Spain, circa 1940.
Located in Chorzów, PL
Gold earrings in the shape of flowers with centrally set diamonds of a total weight of about 0.60 ct (color H-I purity SI1-SI2) Gold fineness: 0.750 (18K) Origin : Spain around 194...
Category

1940s Spanish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold

Brooch circa 1940 in 18 Kt gold, rubies diamonds
Located in Paris, FR
Lapel brooch around 1940 in 18 Kt yellow gold, 18 Kt white gold, synthetic red stones and diamonds. The brooch is made up of yellow gold scrolls, on top 9 red stones and 5 old-cut di...
Category

1940s European Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

MiriamHaskell 1945 CrystalRosesMontees Filigree Glass Enameled ClimberEarrings
Located in Chicago, IL
Before the brand signature was added in 1947, Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess since 1926 designed these asymmetrical Baroque-style climber earrings with hand-painted white-and-ecru enamel leaves, crystal and glass beads, and Russian-gold gilt metal flowers, which are attached to a thick filigree branch that launched the post-war style of covering wires used to attach roses montees and beads behind an additional filigree plate. A similarly constructed and shaped pale-blue pair of climbers dated 1945 are in the renowned Barbara Berger museum-exhibited costume-jewelry collection. Characteristic of the materials favored by Hess for his designs, the clear rosette-cut rhinestones, intricate gilt-metal decorations, and white round glass beads were handcrafted in France by Parisian Louis Rousselet, who was among the first paruriers for Coco Chanel's couture clothing since the 1920s. In contrast to bold costume-jewelry by Chanel using...
Category

1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Crystal, Pearl, Gold, Enamel, Gilt Metal

MiriamHaskell 1945 PeacockBeads Parure WiredBraceletEarrings 16Strand Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
Before 1947 when the brand mark was added and while couture-style adjustable-hook necklaces were in demand in post-war America, Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess created thi...
Category

1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Crystal, Pearl, Gilt Metal, Gold

Art Nouveau Genuine Opal Cabochon and Rhinestone Drop Screwback Earrings, 1940s
Located in Tucson, AZ
Neither buttons or dangles, these luminous earrings feature an inverted “V” of rhinestones punctuated by a perfect 12 mm opal cabochon. Petite yet statement-making and thoroughly mes...
Category

1940s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Opal, Base Metal

Vintage Coro Parrot Duette Brooch-Fur Clip, 1940s
By Coro
Located in New York, NY
Vintage iconic brooch by Coro features two parrots on a tree branch. Lavishly decorated with rhinestones and accented with colorful enamel det...
Category

1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

14k Filigree Gold Natural Turquoise Retro 1940s Drop Earrings Hand Made American
Located in Santa Monica, CA
14k Filigree Gold Turquoise Retro 1940s Drop Earrings Hand Made American 1.0 gram 3/4 inch hanging 6 mm by 5 mm natural Turquoise No damage, no evidenc...
Category

1940s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Turquoise, Gold

Seaman Schepps Floral Brooch with Cabochon Sapphire, Emerald, Ruby, & Diamonds
Located in Chevy Chase, MD
A beautifully handcrafted brooch designed by Seaman Schepps! The brooch features 17 old European cut Diamonds, set in 14K white gold, with cabochon cut Emeralds, Sapphires, and Rubi...
Category

1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Rene Boivin 18 Karat Yellow Gold and Ruby Compact Case, circa 1940
Located in New York, NY
René Boivin was born in February 1864 in Paris. An excellent designer and engraver, he began a career in the jewellery field at a young age. During the 1890s he purchased several workshops and established himself at rue St. Anastase. In 1893 he married Jean...
Category

1940s French Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Platinum Pin Brooch in Rose Gold with Diamonds
Located in Bilbao, ES
Vintage pin brooch in rose gold setting with three central diamonds in claws and openwork design full of diamonds and knurled platinum. MATERIAL ◘ Weight 11.1 grams ◘ Size 23x47mm ...
Category

1940s Spanish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

White Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, Rose Gold

Sterling Silver Egg Yolk Baltic Amber Lilly Pendant Necklace Original 875 Chain
Located in Lauderdale by the Sea, FL
Wonderful vintage sterling silver Baltic "Egg Yolk" Amber pendant with the original 875 silver chain. According to the little historical that we have, the nec...
Category

1940s Russian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Amber, Silver, Sterling Silver

Zorab Creation, Multi-Gems Kaleidoscope Butterfly Cocktail Ring
Located in San Diego, CA
A splendid spectrum of color awaits your hand with the Precious Kaleidoscope ring, a Zorab Creation. Mesmerizing in its brilliantly light catching tones, yellow diamonds 0.26 carats...
Category

1940s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Amethyst, Yellow Diamond, Brown Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Spin...

Art Deco 0.25 Carat Diamond Solitaire Ring, circa 1940s
Located in London, GB
This ring dates to the 1940s but has strong influences from the Victorian era. The classic and timeless design centres a 0.25 carat round brilliant diamond. It has been estimated as ...
Category

1940s British Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum

Zorab Creation Blue Topaz Peridot and White Diamond Cocktail Ring
Located in San Diego, CA
With an extensive array of gorgeous Peridot and Blue Topaz, this White Diamond lined disc style cocktail ring is truly a one of a kind Zorab Creation. All delicately placed, this 15...
Category

1940s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Peridot, Topaz, White Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique 0.59 Carats Old Mine Cut Diamond Solitaire Band
Located in New York, NY
A unisex antique style band showcasing a 0.59 carats old mine cut diamond, secured with six prongs, in a unique setting. Diamond is approximately G color, VS2 clarity. Made in 18k wh...
Category

1940s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Antique Gold Necklace Art Nouveau Style Natural Pearl
Located in Berkeley, CA
1900s style necklace chain with articulate motif hanging a pearl, motifs are cut from gold emboss and engraved. The chain is also an antique design and very pleasant weight, stamped ...
Category

1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

Materials

Natural Pearl, 14k Gold

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Georg Jensen Sterling Silver Wide Dove Bracelet No. 32 with Moonstones
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Eigil Jensen For Anton Michelsen 1960 Denmark Fringe Necklace In .925 Sterling
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Georg Jensen & Wendel Denmark Acorn Sterling Individual Solid Fish Knife #14712
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Sterling silver solid individual fish knife in the Acorn pattern by Georg Jensen. The Acorn pattern was introduced in 1915 as a collaboration between Georg Jensen and designer Joha...
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1940s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

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Georg Jensen & Wendel Denmark Acorn Sterling Silver Gravy Ladle #14713
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Sterling silver gravy ladle in the Acorn pattern by Georg Jensen. The Acorn pattern was introduced in 1915 as a collaboration between Georg Jensen and designer Johan Ronde. The Acor...
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Silver, Sterling Silver

White gold and diamonds Art Nouveau Brooch , French jewell
Located in VALLADOLID, ES
One of a kind and very refined Art Nouveau brooch made in the 40s of the 20th century France. Different brilliant-cut diamonds are arranged on the 18k white gold setting. The centra...
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1940s French Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry

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White gold and diamonds Art Nouveau Brooch , French jewell
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Hobe Sterling 1941 Patent Floral Foliage Ribbon Motif Heart Shaped Silver Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
This Hobe Sterling "Design Pat'd" heart-shaped silver brooch features elaborate and intricate silversmithing depicting flowers, foliage and ribbon. These motifs dominated the early designs since 1926 of this American jewelry brand, which was founded by French William Hobe...
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Sterling Silver

Georg Jensen Sterling Silver Art Nouveau Bell Flower Brooch, 1940's
Located in Atlanta, GA
World War II era sterling silver 'Bell Flower' brooch designed by Alphonse La Paglia (hallmark L.P.) for Georg Jensen. Mr. La Paglia was an Italian born artist who studied in his ea...
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Art Nouveau Carved Jade 14 Karat Gold Drop Station Necklace
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Paperclip style chain necklace is accented by 4.0 mm gold ball and 4.2 mm jade ball stations throughout Suspending a drop of carved jade, translucent with natural veining, and stron...
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Diamond Estate Ring 14 Karat White and Yellow Gold Vintage Ring, circa 1940
Located in Austin, TX
The 1940's were romantic, classy and decorative. The 1930-40 time period is well known for its fashion trends and Art Deco design. This 14 karat gold and diamond ring embodies the tr...
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Located in New York, NY
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Vintage and stamped by the maker, this attractive timeless sterling silver bracelet displays five round crafted links of pretty lilies and leaves creating a pleasing, well constructe...
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Vintage Georg Jensen Silver Screw Back Earrings in Silver Sterling
Located in Yorkshire, West Yorkshire
These Vintage Georg Jensen Earrings are created to resemble a textured swirl #92 are modelled in Sterling Silver with clear marks on the back. Gorgeous and graceful, they will add a ...
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Late Art Deco Diamond Solitaire Engagement Ring, circa 1940s
Located in London, GB
This classic and timeless solitaire dates to the 1940s, although the design has strong Victorian influences. The diamond is a round brilliant weighing 0.27 carat. It has been graded ...
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Enamel, Emerald, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Designed as a dragonfly, the body set with circular-cut emeralds and diamonds, eyes highlighted with cabochon sapphires to en tremblant wings applied with plique-à-jour enamel and circular-cut diamonds, gross weight 34.7 grams. Approximately 3CT round...
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Diamond, Emerald, Blue Sapphire

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