Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
2010s Swiss Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Other, Diamond, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Turkish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Stainless Steel
21st Century and Contemporary Turkish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sterling Silver
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Freshwater Pearl, Diamond, White Diamond, Opal, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Y...
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Turkish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Gold Plate, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Aquamarine, Coral, Diamond, 9k Gold, Yello...
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Natural Pearl, Sapphire, 14k Gold
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Crystal, Diamond, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Rubelite, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1990s Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver Plate, Stainless Steel
21st Century and Contemporary Turkish Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold, Sterling Silver, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Onyx, Tourmaline, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Tanzanite, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Black Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire,...
20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Turkish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Amethyst, 18k Gold, Platinum
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Enamel, Gold-filled
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Yellow S...
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold
19th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1960s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
1910s Unknown Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Yellow Gold
1920s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
1960s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold,...
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Pink Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate, Enamel
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Enamel, Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, 14k Gold, Rose Gold, Gold
1880s English Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Opal, Black Opal, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, S...
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 10k Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, 9k Gold
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, Opal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Turquoise, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Brass, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
Early 1900s Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold