Schiaparelli Haute Couture Pine Cone Necklace, Jean Schlumberger
About the Item
- Creator:
- Style:
- Place of Origin:France
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1939
- Condition:Excellent, Fraying to Lame Ribbon.
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:1stDibs: AU12011826411
Jean Schlumberger
Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry today.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: New York, NY
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Schiaparelli Haute Couture Retro Tank Ruby NecklaceBy House of SchiaparelliLocated in New York, NYSchiaparelli Haute Couture Retro style necklace from the early 1940s with arc shaped gilt chevrons with ruby glass cabochon centers. These s...Category
Vintage 1940s French Link Necklaces
- House of Schiaparelli Neo Victorian Aurora Watermelon SuiteBy House of SchiaparelliLocated in New York, NYSchiaparelli's costume jewelery of the 1950's continued the leit motifs from her pre-war and post-war couture collections. Nature,art, ethnic cultures and influences such as surrealism are ingrained in the DNA of each piece. Schiaparelli's seal of approval is seen throughout these beautiful objet d'art. Schiaparelli's Neo Victorian...Category
Vintage 1950s American More Jewelry
- Schiaparelli Oversized Topaz Bracelet and Ear ClipsBy Elsa SchiaparelliLocated in New York, NYElsa Schiaparelli's massive bracelet and ear clips of large smokey topaz top facet crystals with citrine and Aurora Swarovski crystal spacers. Extreme...Category
Vintage 1950s American Link Bracelets
MaterialsGilt Metal
- House of Schiaparelli Faux Topaz and Citrine Chandelier EarclipsBy House of SchiaparelliLocated in New York, NYSchiaparelli's costume jewelery of the 1950's continued the leit motifs from her pre-war and post-war couture collections. Nature,art, ethnic culture...Category
Vintage 1950s American Chandelier Earrings
- Important House of Schiaparelli Marquise Flame SuiteBy House of SchiaparelliLocated in New York, NYSchiaparelli's costume jewelery of the 1950's continued the leit motifs from her pre-war and post-war couture collections. Nature,art, ethnic cultures and influences such as surreal...Category
Vintage 1950s American More Jewelry
- Schiaparelli Haute Couture Deco Ruby Cabochon SuiteBy House of SchiaparelliLocated in New York, NYSchiaparelli Haute Couture Deco style necklace from the early 1940s with gilt curb links set with faux cabochon rubies. These strong archite...Category
Vintage 1940s French More Jewelry
- Emilio Jewelry Gia Certified 69.00 Carat Fancy Diamond NecklaceBy Emilio!Located in New York, NYFrom the vault at Emilio Jewelry located on New York's iconic Fifth Avenue, Featuring large diamonds starting at 3.00 Carats and slowly graduating smaller. All of the diamonds are Gi...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Choker Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, Yellow Diamond
- 11 Diamond, 1.70 Carat Total Weigh Drop NecklaceLocated in Beverly Hills, CA18 karat white gold diamond drop necklace. This necklace has 11 round brilliant white diamonds weighing a total of 1.70 carats. Each diamond is bezel set and has movement. The neckla...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Modern Drop Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
- Lauren Harper Boulder Opal Diamond Gold NecklaceBy Lauren HarperLocated in Winnetka, ILThis boulder opal doublet and .68cts Diamond necklace is delicate yet bold. Colorful flashes of blue and green catch the light in each distinct opal oval, and the diamond detail mak...Category
2010s Artist Choker Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, Opal, 18k Gold
- White Gold Pink Tourmaline Yellow Sapphire Blue Topaz Flower ChokerLocated in Dallas, TXFun and light! These three small fixed flowers support one each pink tourmaline, yellow sapphire and blue topaz stones.Category
21st Century and Contemporary Choker Necklaces
MaterialsYellow Sapphire, Topaz, Tourmaline, 14k Gold, White Gold
- Chanel Gripoix and Pearl Bib NecklaceBy ChanelLocated in Palm Beach, FLThis very early Chanel Gripoix and Pearl Bib Necklace is in excellent vintage condition. It is a one of a kind highly collectible piece desi...Category
20th Century Choker Necklaces
- An Art Deco Inspired Necklace by William DeLilloBy William DelilloLocated in Palm Desert, CAA real showstopper, this Art Deco inspired necklace, a revival look popular in the 1970's, with the look of onyx and crystal set in silvered metal. Round metal beads are covered in ...Category
Vintage 1970s American Art Deco Choker Necklaces
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
These Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Earrings Are Just the Right Amount of Bold
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
Jean Schlumberger Is Now Beloved by Rappers, Movie Stars and Style Setters Galore
The late jewelry designer's work, including his famous creations for Tiffany & Co., resonate with a new generation.