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Antique 18th Century Chrysolite Chrysoberyl Pendant Earrings Portuguese 1770s

About the Item

Museum quality antique 18th century chrysolite chrysoberyl pendeloque pendant earrings, Portugal, circa 1770. Each earring of an openwork design with a navette shape cluster top suspending a ribbon-tied bow terminal from which hangs an elongated drop-shaped cluster, pave- and collet-set throughout with circular, marquise, cushion and calibre cut yellowish-green chrysoberyl stones close-set in silver. These earrings are secured to reverse with a lever-back fitting consistent with Portuguese jewels of this period. Later Porto assay mark “old man’s head” (used 1884-1984) for antique artefacts. Dimensions: 7.9 x 2.6 cm. Gross weight: 37.26g. For a similar pair of Portuguese Georgian chrysoberyl earrings, see d'Orey, Leonor, "Five Centuries of Jewellery", permanent exhibition of the National Museum of Ancient Art, Lisbon, Zwemmer Publishers Limited, 1995, page 88. For similar pairs of Portuguese Georgian chrysoberyl earrings, see Scarisbrick, Diana, “The S. J. Phillips Collection of Jewels of Portugal”, London, Sotheby’s, S.J.Phillips, 2017, page 42 and 58. One of the most desirable 18th century earring designs for night wear was the bow-drop earrings called the pendeloque. It was characterized by a top (either round or marquise-shaped) connected to a figural bow supporting a drop usually of a similar design to the top. Its outline was often elongated and slightly exaggerated, probably to offset the extremely high hairstyles of the 1770s. In the Iberian (Portuguese and Spanish) antiques world, “crisólita” is a very popular gemstone. This late-18th century misnomer in Portugal and Brasil, also referred to as “oriental chrysolite”, corresponds to greenish-yellow chrysoberyl, a mineral that was named after its transparency and colour, from the Greek “chrysos” (meaning “gold”) and "berullos" (meaning “transparency”). This gemstone became very popular in Portuguese and Brazilian jewellery on the last third of the 1700s gaining even more importance in the early 1800s, following the discovery of significant quantities of fine gem quality material in Minas Gerais, Brazil, particularly in the Minas Novas district. Chrysoberyl is, however, better known for its colour-changing chromium-bearing variety, alexandrite, the mint-green vanadium-bearing variety and, of course, for its cat's eye varieties, sometimes referred to in the trade as cymophane. This item is in good condition, with marks and scratches consistent with general age and wear. Antique, period and vintage pieces, both signed and unsigned, are being offered as worn. Unless otherwise stated, all weights and quality factors have been graded as mounting permitted and using classic gemology and standard gemological equipment and might slightly differ from the assessments provided by other gemologists. Assessments related to period of manufacture or geographic origin of gemstones are expert opinions and may differ from the assessments provided by other professionals. Colors in the pictures/videos might slightly differ from the colors in real life. When certificated stones are being offered, the certificate or report will be mentioned. For additional information or clarification, please get in touch and our in-house team of expert GIA Graduate Gemologists and Registered Appraisers/Valuers will be happy to help. Upon request, every item sold by Espadim 1985 will be accompanied by a complimentary valuation, which you can use for insurance, authenticity and reference and safekeeping purposes; this will contain a detailed description, technical information and photographic records of the item.

Metal:
Silver
Stone:
Chrysoberyl
Stone Cut:
Antique Cushion Cut
Weight:
37.26 g
Dimensions:
Width: 1.03 in (26 mm)Length: 3.12 in (79 mm)
Style:
Georgian
Place of Origin:
Portugal
Period:
1770-1779
Date of Manufacture:
Circa 1770
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Lisbon, PT
Reference Number:
Seller: 356/09E1stDibs: LU2150213789112
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