Modern Brooches
Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.
Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”
A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.
Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.
Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Mid-20th Century French Modern Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Turquoise, Gold, 18k Gold
1940s American Vintage Modern Brooches
1970s Vintage Modern Brooches
Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Gold Plate, Brass
21st Century and Contemporary Asian Modern Brooches
20th Century Modern Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
20th Century American Modern Brooches
Diamond
20th Century French Modern Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Asian Modern Brooches
2010s Italian Modern Brooches
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Early 2000s French Modern Brooches
Late 20th Century American Modern Brooches
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
1970s Vintage Modern Brooches
Diamond, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century European Modern Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Hong Kong Modern Brooches
Jade, Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Sterling Silver
1990s North American Modern Brooches
Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Late 20th Century Hong Kong Modern Brooches
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1990s Chinese Modern Brooches
Enamel, Gilt Metal
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Gold Plate, Brass
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Gold Plate, Brass
Late 20th Century Hong Kong Modern Brooches
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century French Modern Brooches
Blue Sapphire, Yellow Gold
1960s American Vintage Modern Brooches
1960s Finnish Vintage Modern Brooches
Silver
20th Century American Modern Brooches
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Sterling Silver
1950s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Late 20th Century Hong Kong Modern Brooches
Jade, Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Unknown Modern Brooches
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary French Modern Brooches
Diamond, 14k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Modern Brooches
Yellow Gold
1960s Finnish Vintage Modern Brooches
Silver
1970s American Vintage Modern Brooches
1960s British Vintage Modern Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Asian Modern Brooches
1950s Unknown Vintage Modern Brooches
Mid-20th Century American Modern Brooches
Jade, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Unknown Modern Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Sterling Silver
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Sterling Silver
1960s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Mixed Metal
Late 20th Century Modern Brooches
Coral, Diamond
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Sterling Silver
1960s American Vintage Modern Brooches
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Gold Plate, Brass
Late 20th Century American Modern Brooches
Diamond, Kunzite, Pearl, Topaz, Blue Topaz, Platinum
Mid-20th Century American Modern Brooches
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Hong Kong Modern Brooches
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary German Modern Brooches
Opal, 18k Gold, Platinum
1960s Vintage Modern Brooches
Opal, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Hong Kong Modern Brooches
Jade, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Amethyst, Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century American Modern Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
1940s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Crystal, Pearl, Sapphire, Mixed Metal
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Sterling Silver
1980s American Vintage Modern Brooches
Sterling Silver