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Cartier Paris Art Deco Flexible Diamond Bracelet, circa 1930

US$375,000Asking Price

About

A wide flexible band bracelet set with diamonds, created in two hinged segments each set with a line of larger raised diamonds on a pave ground with pierced elements near the edges; mounted in platinum • 568 diamonds, total weighing approximately 28.5 carats • Signed Cartier, 85748, Made in France Jewelry design radically changed after World War I. The delicate swags and bows of the Edwardian period were replaced with the strong, geometric style of Art Deco. The new paradigm was based on the art movements of Cubism, Futurism, and Neoplasticism in which squares, rectangles, circles, and triangles were juxtaposed or overlapped to create linear configurations. This style was translated into jewelry design with the creation of new forms and also with contrasting surface treatments utilizing a variety of stone cuts. Platinum was the preferred metal by the end of the 1920s; its whiteness complemented diamonds to give Art Deco jewelry settings vibrancy and interest. Cartier embraced the Art Deco, with a combination of strong geometric designs, and exotic colorful jewels inspired by the decorative arts of far-off lands such as Asia, India, and the Middle East. In this unusual bracelet, the Cartier designers skillfully evoked an Islamic carpet, in an all-diamond palette. The carefully placed piercing around the edges evokes a geometric carpet pattern, while the notched chevron form around the center hinge is a common motif in Islamic design. The line of large bezel-set diamonds down the center adds a strong touch of luxury and geometry. Completely set with diamonds, the functional hinges are turned into strong design elements, giving the piece a slightly Machine Age feel. At the beginning of the 1920s, bracelets were slender, but by the middle of the decade they were wide, a reflection of the new style of sleeveless dress which allowed the jewelry designer free rein to create jewelry to decorate the wrist and upper arm. Bracelets that had been accessories to fashion were now wearable art forms that demanded attention. The combination of Art Deco geometry and exotic influence elevates this bracelet to one of the best of Cartier’s diamond designs.

Details

  • Creator
  • Metal
  • Stone
  • Stone Cut
  • Weight
    60.2 g
  • Dimensions
    Width: .88 in. (22.36 mm)Depth: .25 in. (6.35 mm)Length: 7 in. (177.8 mm)
  • Style
  • Place of Origin
    France
  • Period
  • Date of Manufacture
    circa 1930
  • Condition
  • Seller Location
    New York, NY
  • Reference Number
    Seller: F13461stDibs: LU2075210718222

Shipping & Returns

  • Shipping
    Free Shipping: Standard Parcel Shipping
    to anywhere in the world, arrives in 1-3 weeks, excluding production time.
    We recommend this shipping type based on item size, type and fragility.
    Ships From: New York, NY
  • Return Policy

    A return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery.

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About the Designer

Cartier

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts.While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces. It’s certainly one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.On 1stDibs, find a growing collection of contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories.
About the Seller
5 / 5
Located in New York, NY

Siegelson is a world-renowned gallery offering rare collectible jewels. Third-generation gem and jewelry dealer Lee Siegelson has been credited with bridging the gap between art and jewelry design, in the process transforming estate jewelry into a vibrant part of the luxury goods and collectibles world. Focusing on a piece’s design rat...

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Established in 1920
1stDibs seller since 2020
8 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: 2 hours
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