Belle Époque circa 1880, 20.35 Ct Old Mine Cut Diamond Gold Floral Spray Brooch

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Belle Époque circa 1880, 20.35 Ct Old Mine Cut Diamond Gold Floral Spray Brooch

About the Item

What fascinates us about antique jewellery pieces, besides the exquisite craftsmanship they showcase, are their stories. With this large floral spray brooch, dating to the years around 1880, we are made to think of the countless balls and soirées it must have seen in its time, as diamond jewellery was confined to evening wear back then: and the more splendid the piece, the grander the occasions it would have been worn to. 176 diamonds in historical cuts adorn this lavish piece, amounting to a staggering 20,35 ct in weight. They are set in silver, while the back of the spray is worked in gold – a common practice at the time, seeing as yellow gold would have tinted the diamonds' colour, whilst white gold had not yet been invented. Additionally, silver would oxidise with time, thus offsetting the white diamonds against a darker ground, making them appear ever brighter and more brilliant. The brooch is made in the shape of a floral spray. Leaves, fully opened flowers and small buds – represented by single old mine cut diamonds – form an elegant curve. Each part of the surface is covered in diamonds, some smaller, some very large. The largest diamonds weigh approx. 1,30 ct each, and are of very good quality. It is likely that the brooch was originally part of a tiara. In the 19th century, many precious tiaras were made up of composite parts that could also be worn on their own as pendants and brooches, thus rendering the piece more versatile. On its back, this brooch, too, shows mountings that would have been necessary to fasten it to the framework of a tiara. However, still in the 19th century, the mounting as a brooch was made permanent. Perhaps the tiara was handed down and its components split amongst family, or its original wearer decided that after all, there were more opportunities to wear a brooch than a tiara. The brooch is in beautiful condition. Both the craftsmanship and the materials used are excellent, telling us that the piece was once commissioned and worn by a lady who frequented the highest circles of society. MATERIALS 176 diamonds, old mine cut, 20,35 ct altogether, Top Wesselton/G – Top Cape+/K, vsi-pi The front silver The back Gold 585/000, resp. 14 karat HALLMARKS French import mark for used goods made of gold with the number “75” for the département Paris on the needle, the C-shaped hook with further, illegible marks CERTIFICATE Delivery with detailed independent certificate of the DEGEB (Deutsche Gesellschaft fuer Edelsteinbewertung/German Association for Gemstone Evaluation) in Idar-Oberstein dated 31.08.2018. Estimated value: 34.070,- Euro.

Metal:
14k Gold,Silver
Stone:
Diamond
Stone Cut:
Old Mine Cut
Dimensions:
Width: 1.89 in (48 mm)
Style:
Belle Époque
Period:
Late 19th Century
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1880
Condition:
Very good condition, originally presumably part of a tiara, mounting as brooch dates to the 19th century.
Seller Location:
Berlin, DE
Reference Number:
Seller: 18-09041stDibs: LU156426581351