A French Blue Silk Habit de Ville Complete Frock Coat - Napoleonic Period 1805

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A French Blue Silk Habit de Ville Complete Frock Coat - Napoleonic Period 1805

About the Item

Circa 1800/1810 France_ Oberkampf Mallet family Provenance Complete Habit de ville, frock coat and waistcoat in bleu de Prusse silk faille and a brown twill silk breeches in connection with the Dandy silhouette of the beginning of the 19th century. Slim pattern cut, curved shape sleeves with lapeled wrists and very high rigid collar. Complete with its twenty-eight matching metal buttons indicating the label l’Eclair 24 déposé and La Robuste Paris 14. Four real pockets with crenellated flaps and cream satin silk lining padded with wadding on the chest. Provenance from the Mallet-Oberkampf family. Similar references: LACMA M.2007.211.54a-b, and Staatliche Museen zu Berlin 203 KR 110a-c. Some repairs under the armpits, hard to see, and some weakness of the lining. Otherwise blue silk is strong and not damaged. Good condition and color. Measurement: Equivalent French men size 36. If the origin of this habit does not allow us to attribute it to the famous inventor of the Toile de Jouy, Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf, it seems to me that it also constitutes a remarkable fashion ensemble. His membership in the Mallet-Oberkampf-Feray Protestant families, ruling elites and close to Emperor Napoleon I, who awarded the Legion of Honour to Oberkampf in 1806. This ensemble by its quality, its cut probably of a famous tailor, materializes the technological advances of the industry at the service of the Fashion and the Empire, advocated by the famous fashion merchant of the empress, Louis Hippolyte Leroy. It’s hard to imagine how such a slim cut that is more Incredible, precursor of the new Dandys, with these crenellated cuts of the vest and these patch pockets precisely corresponding to the criteria of the Empire models, could belong to Oberkampf himself! But rather to a prestigious member of his entourage. Notably, it can be noted that among the twelve members that the Emperor wished to return in 1810 to the General Council of the Manufactures were Ternaux (shawl factory), Richard-Lenoir and… the son-in-law of Oberkampf 1. The first exhibitions of the products of the national industry presented in 1798, then in 1801, 1082 and 1806 in the Cour Carrée du Louvre, concretize real technological advances following the suppression of the Corporations of the Ancien Régime. Jean Tulard in his study on the state of trade and industry (1778-1810)2 notes that the consequences of the Continental Blockade, favors the emergence of a luxury industry linked to the court that becomes imperial after 1804. Similarly, the Almanac of La Tynna 3 Commerce, which counts patents of inventions and manufactures, reveals to us a certain Eugène Scherding, manufactures of Eclair which invents a machine Eclair to make buttons. We must not forget also this precious and sober silk Ottoman in dyed twill armour, which is evidently the result of the new School of Chemistry created in Lyon by the Emperor. Thus, Jean Michel Raymond, new director of this school of Chemistry, invents a process based on cyanide to elaborate Prussian blue, Raymond blue or Marie-Louise blue. Serge Liagre

Dimensions:
Marked Size: Equivalent French men size 36 (EU)
Style:
1800/1810 (Of the Period)
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1800-1809
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. Very Good Condition and Color for its age.
Seller Location:
Toulon, FR
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU633311861302