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Rare Schiaparelli Black Quilted Faille Evening Cape, 1951

About the Item

Rare Schiaparelli Haute Couture Mandarin Black Quilted Faille Cape, 1951 Amazingly chic and modern quilted silk faille Haute Couture cape by Elsa Schiaparelli from the 1950's. Molded and lacquered resin flower seed buttons by Jean Clement line the front as well as pair of tiny slit pockets. In the period Schaparelli was as famous for her modernist treatments of black as she was for her frivolities. Evening capes and coverups were used in a myriad of ways in her collections of the 1930's thru the 1950's, many times in softer, more fluid versions. This sculptural cape was no doubt paired with a a slim fitting seath dress underneath. A very striking and powerful proportion. This extraordinary example is cut to force the wearer into a controlled Mandarin stance as only your hands (gloved in the period) would be revealed through the slits. Very typical of the sobre chic styles chosen by the Duchess of Windsor ,but, with an overscaled proportion which she would have shied away from. This evening cape parallel the dramatic toreador inspired capes of Balenciaga.The capes shoulder yoke is doubled ,but, not quilted and forms a very clean visual line. The weight of the quilted silk and added godets helps to anchor the shape and proportion of the cape which is simultaeneously oversized yet proportionate. As the wearer moves the weight gently shifts and creates the subtle movement needed to break the stiffness. A very ingenius and effective technical solution developed to create this chic imprint. Schiaparelli was an artist interested in creating forms, proportions and shapes with fabrics and materials hence unused in the realm of the Haute Couture and fashion. Her circle of important artist friends collaborated with and influenced her in one of the most important and creative periods of fashion in the 20th Century...the period just prior to WWII. Schiaparelli's influence on the generation of designers who followed her including Givenchy, Balenciaga, Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent was enormous and irrefutable. Today designers such as Galliano, Gaultier, Castelbajac, and Moschino represent her admirers. She set a new "standard", much like her rival,Coco Chanel for modern dressing which younger couturiers of the period appropriated. Her innovative cuts, dramatic color sense and design bravado influence and inspire legions of designers to this day. This cape is photographed in L'officiel 1951, issue 347/348 ,page 109 and is shown with a slim black seath dress. SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY.
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    "In difficult times, fashion is always outrageous" Elsa Schiaparelli,1930's. "Life has changed so much, A Schiaparelli was never made for the streets." Karl Lagerfeld, 1970's. 2 quotes,2 designers, 4 decades apart. 4 decades later. Although these quotes are highly debatable, especially in the context of today's high-low designer collabs and pop up retailing, iconic fashion endures. Whether now relegated to a museum exhibition, a collector's acid free box or a celebrity one nighter, these fashion artifacts from the french Haute Couture of the 1930's echo a time, pace and culture unrecognizable to most people today. Schiaparelli changed the definition of what it meant to be a designer at an important time in the evolution of the Haute Couture. Rather than simply making beautifully elegant garments (which she also did), she focused on the concepts behind the pieces. For her fashion was a fluid medium and she effortlessly blended fashion, politics and the fine arts. She was one of the most innovative and rebellious designers of the period working against what she considered the stale fashion currents of the day. She was elegant yet untrained. As a protege of Poiret, she gained entry into the world of Parisian fashion. While her rival Chanel was essentially uneducated and a “primitive” in the artistic circles in which she socialized, Schiaparelli’s impeccable social credentials as the daughter of an old and distinguished Roman family gave her a relatively easy entree into Paris society. She was a subversive, a punk, a desecrator, a collaborator, an innovator as well as the ultimate insider whose plans on design domination and creating "la zone rose" for the modern world were cut short by the advent of WWII. She was at the height of her influence and power showing 4 iconic collections in the last years of the decade. Fascinating to consider what the House of Schiaparelli could have brought forth in the following decades had the world not been swept away in turmoil at that moment. In the context of her short prewar career, few remaining masterworks have survived. The rare "moment" she created in the 30's lives on within each art piece, safelocked away within each stitch and sequin. Each design retains her spirit and legacy as a free thinking, modernist rebel who used the avantegarde as her platform in the most creative period of fashion design in the 20th Century. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Rare and Important Elsa Schiaparelli Haute Couture...
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