1990S MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Black Rayon Jersey Avant Garde Draped Cocktail Dre
View Similar Items
1990S MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Black Rayon Jersey Avant Garde Draped Cocktail Dre
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Length: 59 in (149.86 cm)Marked Size: M (US)Waist: 26 in (66.04 cm)
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:Seller: DSMING3ON10471stDibs: LU16122063013
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- 1990S JUNYA WATANABE FOR COMME DES GARCONS Black Polyester Chiffon AsymmetricalLocated in New York, NY1990S JUNYA WATANABE FOR COMME DES GARCONS Black Polyester Chiffon Asymmetrical Avant Garde Draped DressCategory
1990s Japanese Day Dresses
- 1980S CLAUDE PETIN PARIS Black Metallic Rayon Blend Chiffon Jersey Strapless HiLocated in New York, NY1980S CLAUDE PETIN PARIS Black Metallic Rayon Blend Chiffon Jersey Strapless High Slit Gown With Back Cut OutsCategory
1980s French Evening Dresses and Gowns
- 1970S MOLLIE PARNIS Black Tulle Dress Covered With Metallic Embroidery Silver SBy Mollie ParnisLocated in New York, NY1970S MOLLIE PARNIS Black Tulle Dress Covered With Metallic Embroidery Silver Studded PaillettesCategory
1970s American Evening Dresses and Gowns
- 1950S Black Rayon & Silk Lace Ruffled Fit Flare Swing Skirt Cocktail DressLocated in New York, NY1950S Black Rayon & Silk Lace Ruffled Fit Flare Swing Skirt Cocktail DressCategory
1950s Cocktail Dresses
- 1930S Black Bias Cut Rayon Crepe Gown With Celluloid Sequin Peek-A-Boo SleevesLocated in New York, NY1930S Black Bias Cut Rayon Crepe Gown With Celluloid Sequin Peek-A-Boo SleevesCategory
1930s Evening Gowns
- 1980S THIERRY MUGLER Black Rayon Blend Crepe Asymmetrically Draped Cocktail DreBy Thierry MuglerLocated in New York, NYTagged a European 36 1980S THIERRY MUGLER Black Rayon Blend Crepe Asymmetrically Draped Cocktail Dress With Sheer Lace Back & SleevesCategory
1980s French Cocktail Dresses
- 1990s Louis Feraud Black Cerimony Floral Velvet Vintage Long DressBy Louis FeraudLocated in Brindisi, BtLouis Feraud vintage women dress. Black color, 100% polyester. Long model, floral applications in velvet, adjustable waist belt, collar with flou...Category
1990s German Evening Dresses
- Gianni Versace F/W 1993 Runway Couture Sheer Knit Mesh Lace Evening Dress GownBy Gianni Versace CoutureLocated in Naples, FLGianni Versace F/W 1993 Runway Couture Sheer Knit Mesh Lace Bustier Black Evening Dress Gown IT 44 Excellent Condition!Category
1990s Evening Dresses and Gowns
- F/2012 look # 6 NEW VERSACE MACRAME GOTHIC CROSS COCKTAIL SILK DRESS 38 - 2By VersaceLocated in Montgomery, TXVERSACE Actual Runway Samole Fall/Winter 2012 Look # 6 Macrame Gothic Cross Cocktail Dress This long sleeve, turtle neck cocktail dress features an allover macrame Gothic cross...Category
2010s Italian Cocktail Dresses
- The little black dress by Chanel black and white silk Sculpted figureLocated in Bilbao, ESAbsence of vulgarity was central to Chanel’s definition of luxury, a view formed during her impoverished early life. Born in 1883 in Saumur, France, as Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, she was just 12 years old when her mother died and her itinerant father put her in a home for orphaned girls run by a local convent. She learned to sew and, upon moving to Moulins six years later, became a seamstress. She also sang in nightclubs, earning the sobriquet “Coco,” an allusion to a popular song of the time. Beautiful, one of a kind vintage silk dress and jacket for everyday ware as a coktail dress...Category
1990s Aesthetic Evening Dresses
$2,723 Sale Price32% Off - 2005 Comme Des Garcons Little Black DressBy Tao Kurihara, Comme des GarçonsLocated in Scottsdale, AZTao for Comme Des Garcons, circa: 2005, The structure of these minimal, little black dress by the Japanese vintage fashion label, Comme Des Ga...Category
20th Century Japanese Cocktail Dresses
- Vintage Linz Line Black Cocktail /Dinner DressLocated in London, GBA chic vintage cocktail/ dinner dress by Linz Line. The dress has a scalloped off the shoulder neckline and is fully lined. There is gatherin...Category
1950s Unknown Evening Dresses and Gowns
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
Martin Margiela: An Intimate Look at the Designer and His Surreal Fashions
In a recently released film, the elusive Belgian designer reflects on his time in the fashion world and his avant-garde creations, which have become coveted collector items.
After Centuries, the Kimono’s Influence on Fashion Is Still Strong
We talked to museum curators and fashion experts to find out how and why the kimono has remained endlessly fascinating for more than 1,000 years.