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Maison Martin Margiela

French

Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.

Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”

Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.

Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.

Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.

Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.

While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.

“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”

Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.

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Item Ships From: USA
Designer: Maison Martin Margiela
S/S 2009 Maison Martin Margiela Red Jersey Asymmetrical Drape Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in North Hollywood, CA
S/S 2009 Maison Martin Margiela red jersey asymmetrical drape dress. Asymmetrical stretch jersey dress with cap sleeve on left side and elbow-length left sleeve, with asymmetrical dr...
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Early 2000s Maison Martin Margiela

MM6 Maison Martin Margiela Coral Halter Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
Soft cotton cropped halter top in coral comes from Maison Martin Margiela. It's straps, which secure around the neck, run down the length of the front of the top.
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Early 2000s French Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARGIELA Powder Blue Strapless Plunge Wrap Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Morongo Valley, CA
Asymmetrical powder blue Maison Margiela gathered wrap dress with plunging neckline. Both sides of the dress feature ruching extending from the bodice to the lower hips, accentuatin...
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2010s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela Riding Boots Deep Red Size 37 Replica Line 22
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Margiela Knee-high Riding Boots in Wine Red Replica Line 22 Size 37 Made in Italy Serial Number 38WW0207 37 Heel Height 3 inches Tag reads REPLICA Reproduction of Garments of Varyi...
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Late 20th Century Italian Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela New Translucent Raincoat S/S 2018
By Maiscon Martin Margiella, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous new translucent, white reflective polyurethane plastic raincoat from Maison Margiela S/S 2018 collection. It was difficult to capture the beautiful white reflectiveness in...
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2010s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

1996 MARTIN MARGIELA Metal Ring Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Austin, TX
1996 Martin Margiela brown knit crop top with tie back and metal ring neck Condition: Excellent Bust 24" , 18" waist, 21.5" length size XS / S
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1990s Unknown Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size S Burgundy Wool Cardigan
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA cardigan comes in a burgundy wool featuring a covered button closure. Made in Italy.Very Good Pre-Owned Condition. Marked: S ...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

1990's Maison Martin Margiela Double High Waisted Wide Leg Pant
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
1990's Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal Collection Double High Waisted Wide LegTrousers in wool with an adjustable nylon drawstring waistband.
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1990s French Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size 4 Black Cotton / Silk Pencil Skirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA skirt comes in a black cotton / silk featuring a pencil style, top stitching, and a back zipper closure. Made in Italy.New With Tags. Marked: IT 40 Meas...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

1994MaisonMartinMargiela PlungingOpenChestSlinky BlackBiasRuchedHalter SlitDress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
With the original hand-sewn off-white unbranded rectangular label of Paris-based Maison Martin Margiela, this asymmetrical plunging v-neck black jersey pullover gown was designed in 1994 by Belgium fashion-designer-cum-artist Martin Margiela. In his early deconstruction style, it partly appears to be a ruched halter dress that is positioned on a bias to add curves to shape the waist, while its open overlapping wrap skirt enables ample draping on one side that conceals a high slit from the waist down. Recalling the construction found in two of Martin Margiela's seminal collections--both the upcycled-split 1950s ballgowns of Spring/Summer 1991 and the draped "Stockman" garments of Spring/Summer 1997--this stretch-viscose dress is likewise a bodice with a split skirt, while its 3/4-length sleeves can recall Margiela's famous "shouldered arm bands" if worn with protruding breasts fully exposed. The top has a wide deep gapping chest or back, along with the option to position the looped "halter" cord that hangs from the torso in one of several ways by pulling over the head. For example, if the dress is worn "backwards" with the brand label resting on the upper chest, the cord from the ruching that is positioned in back can be pulled overhead and under the arms, which can secure the front shoulders of the top by pulling the loop overhead again in the other direction to rest on the back of the neck--like the Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1997 "Stockman evening dress" in the museum collection of TheMet (see our pic of its smaller open-front black halter and half skirt with the neck strap worn this way.) No doubt the buyer will try more creative ways, too! You may be inspired by our other listing for arguably one of Martin Margiela's best Artisanal Line 0 pieces--a couture body harness--that, like his fashion manifesto, enables endless repurposing of button-down tops to create a plunging v-neckline with a distinct rolled collar. The Italian-size 42 dress...
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1990s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size M Tan Cashmere V-Neck Pullover
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MARTIN MARGIELA pullover comes in a tan cashmere featuring long sleeves and a v-neck. Made in Italy. Very Good Pre-Owned Condition. Missing brand tag. Marked: Size tag removed. ...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size 4 Olive & Gold Leather Jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA jacket comes in a olive & gold leather with a full liner featuring a notch lapel style, large zipper & flap pockets, and a buttoned closure. Made in Italy.Exce...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size S Black Viscose / Wool Sweater Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA sweater dress comes in a black viscose / wool featuring long sleeves and a front button closure detail. Made in Italy.Very Good Pre-Owned Condition. Marked: ...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size 6 Red Leather Pebble Grain Chunky heel Boots
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA boots comes in a red pebble grain leather featuring a side zipper closure and a ombre chunky heel. Made in Italy. New With Box. Marked: 36 Measurements:...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size S Red White Blue Dots Cotton Long Sleeve Shirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA long sleeve shirt comes in a red & white dot print cotton featuring a spread collar and a button up closure. Made in Romania.Very Good Pre-Owned Condition. M...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size M Black Viscose / Polyester Leggings
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA leggings comes in a black viscose / polyester and features a feet design. Made in Italy. Very Good Pre-Owned Condition. Marked: M Measurements: Waist:...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size 6 Light Grey Acid Wash Skinny Jeans
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA jeans come in a light gray acid wash stretch denim with a narrow leg. Discolorations throughout and tag stitches undone. As-is. Made in Italy. Fair Pre-Owned C...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Regular Charcoal Solid Wool Notch Lapel Sport Coat
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Sport Coat consists of 100% wool material in a charcoal color tone. Designed with a notch lapel collar, 3-button front, bottom flap pockets and top pocket squa...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela Belted Straight Pant
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
These elegant cream-colored straight leg pants from Maison Martin Margiela are belted, with opposing buckles that secure with a wrap-around strap. Two front seam pockets.
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Early 2000s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size S Orange Cotton Slim Fit Long Sleeve Shirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA long sleeve shirt comes in an orange cotton woven material featuring a straight collar, and a button up closure. Very Good Pre-Owned Condition. Marked: 10-...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size 4 Raspberry Viscose Blend Fitted Cocktail Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA cocktail dress comes in a raspberry viscose blend featuring a ribbed panel design, long sleeves, and a side zipper closure. Made in Italy. Very Good Pre-Owned ...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela Gold Kimono Inspired Artwork Bias Mixed Media Dress Gown New
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Maison Margiela by John Galliano mixed media kimono inspired print gown. Bodice fashioned of mustard scuba fabric with narrow asymmetric peplum at waist. Extends into gold silk...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela SS2008 Shark Tooth Tank Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Condition: 9/10. No noticeable flaws. Tagged size: 46. Fits closer to a M Shoulder: 16.5in Pit to pit: 19in Length: 27in
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Early 2000s Maison Martin Margiela

2014 MARGIELA by JOHN GALLIANO long gabardine RUNWAY coat
By Maison Martin Margiela, John Galliano
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Striking, maxi-length wool gabardine coat with Trompe-l'œil button detail designed by John Galliano for Maison Martin Margiela dating to 2014, exac...
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2010s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

Black Maison Margiela Replica Pointed-Toe Booties Size 37
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
Black leather and suede pointed-toe booties by Maison Margiela Replica. 4.25" heel height.
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21st Century and Contemporary French Maison Martin Margiela

A/W 1999 Maison Martin Margiela Deep Rust Color-way 'Lining' Long Sleeve Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in North Hollywood, CA
A/W 1999 Maison Martin Margiela deep rust color-way 'lining' long sleeve dress. Long sleeve midi dress created with interior lining of dress, with 'necklace' formed by loop tie that ...
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1990s Maison Martin Margiela

2000S MARTIN MARGIELA Black Cotton Distressed Overlay Jeans
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
2000S MARTIN MARGIELA Black Cotton Distressed Overlay Jeans
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Early 2000s Maison Martin Margiela

2000S MARTIN MARGIELA Forrest Green Cotton & Linen Relaxed Fit Jeans
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
2000S MARTIN MARGIELA Forrest Green Cotton & Linen Relaxed Fit Jeans
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Early 2000s Maison Martin Margiela

Couture MartinMargiela 1997 Draped Convertible Vest Skirt Cape Black Tyvek Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
Contemporary artist Martin Margiela, while initially a fashion designer, gave TheMet's Costume Institute from his seminal 1997 "Wordrobe" collection a couture trio, which he titled "Drapery Study: study of draping on bust, half dress and backless vest", whereafter in 2016 the museum made a rare purchase of another of his 1997 ensembles. Our couture bodice from the Artisanal line "0" by Margiela in 1997 features its iconic "ghost" off-white four-corner-stitched blank brand tag. But ours is a one-piece variation of the half dresses and backless vests that Margiela famously associated with Stockman dress forms, which have since become some of the most coveted pieces of 20th-Century fashion. This collection earned him the role of Hermes creative director that same year, whereafter his first collection for the venerable luxury brand debuted in 1998. TheMet wrote about its designer-gifted 1997 ensemble in its summary of New Clothes Acquisition of the 1990s: "to exemplify the conceptual basis of dressmaking Margiela's paramount concern to return to the raw materials of dress often exchanges finish and finesse to something more akin to process in modern art". Like that ensemble, our satin-finish black rectangular-panel garment can be draped in multiple ways to create different functions because of its unusual non-fabric soft material Tyvek and the way that the two black grosgrain ribbons are attached. Based on our experience with other Martin Margiela limited-edition Artisanal objects, there may be two that exist in black (see our other listing for the boxed set including a white harness/lingerie). TheMet also acquired from the 1997 Maison Martin Margiela Stockman...
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1990s Belgian Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela Red Leather Platform Croc Clogs 39
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Maison Margiela Red Leather Platform Croc Clogs in size 39. These shoes feature perforated leather similar to the look of Crocs, but with the style of clogs. They also have studs alo...
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21st Century and Contemporary Italian Maison Martin Margiela

2010S MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Black Acetate & Poly Cocktail Dress With Dark Gree
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
2010S MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Black Acetate & Poly Cocktail Dress With Dark Green Chest Panel
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2010s Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela New Split Leg Pants
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
Beautiful wool pants from Martin Margiela. They are high waisted with a button waistband, fly front and full legs with 2 vertical splits one larger with a smaller one below it along ...
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Early 2000s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

1990's Maison Margiela Deep Brown Jersey Skirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in North Hollywood, CA
1990's Maison Margiela deep brown (nearly black) jersey skirt. A-line skirt with moderate stretch throughout. 100% Rayon. In very good vintage condition w...
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20th Century Maison Martin Margiela

Vintage 1996 MARTIN MARGIELA black runway coat with 'elongated' pockets
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Black runway coat with oversized collar, elongated pockets and topstitching detail designed by Martin Margiela as seen on the fall 1996 runway. Label...
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Early 2000s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

2009 Martin Margiela Mirrored Disco Jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Austin, TX
2009 Martin Margiela Mirrored Disco Jacket Look #35 from Spring 2009 collection by Martin Margiela Can be worn as cape or jacket Condition: Very good, no...
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Early 2000s Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela Rare Vintage Beaded Tapestry Runway Dress Gown Museum Collec
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Spring 2012 Maison Martin Margiela's collection of exquisite evening wear inspired by Asian theme tapestry. One could picture this "wearable art" sequined number out at a fashion party or special event. Margiela tapestry gown featured in RSID museum exhibition (see last photo). Strapless gown with corset...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

MartinMargiela Early1990s UniqueUpcycled Garters&Crotch Velvet CroppedHalter Bra
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
Captured in a video still from his Fall/Winter 1992 collection fashion show in Paris, Martin Margiela uniquely upcycled the seam intersections from the crotch, dart or tuck on decon...
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1990s French Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela Spring 1999 Trompe-L'œil Semi Couture Bodice
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Diego, CA
Maison Martin Margiela dressmaker bodice in Trompe-L'œil printed cotton featured on the spring 1999 runway in look eight adorned with hook-and-eye closures, number, and lettered with...
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1990s European Maison Martin Margiela

Masion Margiela Hi Fashion Mixed Media Assymetric Bow Sweater - Runway New M
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Stunning Masion Margiela mixed media asymmetric sweater adorned with large bow at shoulder. As seen on the runway (see photo). One of the best Margie...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2010 Haute Couture Laser Cut Leather Trousers
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Diego, CA
Rare leather trousers adorned with circular laser cuts from Maison Martin Margiela's spring 2010 Haute Couture collection. Waist: 24-26" Hip: 33-35" Inseam: 31"
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2010s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

MartinMargiela 1994 Artisanal Line0 UpcycledSocks HandMade Overdyed Pullover
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
Martin Margiela did something unprecedented with his contemporary luxury fashion brand Maison Martin Margiela in 1994, which was to present a collection with no new designs but rathe...
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1990s Belgian Maison Martin Margiela

Margiela Wrap Skirt Black Line 4 Medium/One Size
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Margiela Wrap Skirt in Black Line 4 - Woman's garderobe (since Spring/Summer 2004) Size and fabric tag missing, feels like crisp vintage poly, nice and durable Open sizing, adjustabl...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

S/S 2002 Maison Martin Margiela Black Cropped Wool Tuxedo Jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in North Hollywood, CA
S/S 2002 Maison Martin Margiela black cropped wool long sleeve tuxedo blazer jacket. Cropped jacket with fully built-in connected flat illusion lapel and triple button detail on both...
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Early 2000s Maison Martin Margiela

A/W 2003 Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal Inverted Jeans
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in North Hollywood, CA
A/W 2003 Maison Martin Margiela artisanal jeans with inverted button-up front detail. These jeans were originally vintage denim Levi's, turned inside-out for a reverse variation. Hig...
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Early 2000s Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela Artisanal distressed denim jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Austin, TX
Martin Margiela Artisanal distressed denim jacket. Size M Condition: Very Good
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1990s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela Lighting Skyline Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
Martin Margiela Lighting Skyline Dress in black rayon/cotton with printed lightening erupting over an urban skyline. Simple T shirt lines, from the MM6...
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1990s French Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela New Strapless Color Block Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous light taupe silk and black net strapless gown from Martin Margiela top line collection. It falls in an A line from top to hem- taupe down to the mid calf then black netti...
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2010s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela Tank Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
The possibilities are endless with the simplicity of this soft white Maison Martin Margiela 100% cotton knee length tank dress. Can be dressed up or down, be the center of attention ...
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1990s French Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela AW2008 Down Filled Puffer
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This puffer features a polyester outer, and down filled inner. The cut is rather relaxed, and meant to fit over other layers. Condition: 9/10. No noticeable flaws. Tagged size: 44 ...
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Early 2000s Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela New Oversize Puffer Jacket A/W 2018
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A stunning puffer jacket in iridescent yellow with green and orange by Martin Margiela. It is oversized, horizontally quilted with a standup collar, ext...
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2010s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela Black Orchid Bias Gown with Open Back New!
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Maison Margiela by John Galliano enchanting bias cut gown. Features black velvet shoulder straps with narrow asymmetric peplum at waist extending into black silk charmeuse bias godet skirt...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela Asymmetrical Saddel Leather Belt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
A unique asymmetrical leather belt from Maison Martin Margiela in black with heavy duty hardware and exposed stitching.
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Early 2000s French Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela Nylon Zip Flap Grey Leather Crossbody
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Montreal, Quebec
Color: Grey Material: Leather and nylon= Measures: H 7” x L 7” x D 2.5” Drop: 13-23” Condition: Excellent. Like new. Pristine. Made in Italy
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21st Century and Contemporary Italian Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela Olive Wrap Front Skirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
This soft rayon knit skirt comes in an earthy olive color from Maison Martin Margiela. The faux wrap front secures with a small button.
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Early 2000s French Maison Martin Margiela

Couture MartinMargiela 1998 WorkOnPaper & Artisanal Line0 WhiteLingerie BoxedSet
By Maison Martin Margiela, Martin Margiella
Located in Chicago, IL
As conceptual art while he transitioned to Hermes Creative Director in 1998, Belgian Martin Margiela--whose creations today debut in the setting of a contemporary-art gallery priced at upwards of EU$150,000--created this stenciled or block print. Conceived by arguably the most culturally influential contemporary fashion designer since Gabriel "Coco" Chanel, it is part of a limited-edition-of-two white-boxed set that includes the couture Maison Martin Margiela "Artisanal Line 0" body-harness lingerie in its maker's signature color white for Spring 1998. The same lingerie--one white and the other black--starred in a film made by Margiela among the five that he screened to present his Spring/Summer 1998 "Flat Collection" in Paris at the Conciergerie. In that film titled "4", which begins with a view of the iconic topless tabi "boots", the hands of Margiela's white-labcoat-clad assistants enter the frame to manipulate different garments on a model who initially wears the exterior lingerie (see our photos) as if jewelry. A simple dark collared coat, a white collared button-down shirt, and a dark button-down cardigan--all with the "displaced neckline" or "displaced shoulder" of the flat-hanging clothes--are transformed into new collarless plunging v-neck garments, which appear to be ruched when folded under the harness of the lingerie. Both black versions of the lingerie are in museum collections. In Martin Margiela's home-country, the ModeMuseum (MoMu) archived its collected piece as OBJ7660. In the 2018 Parisian retrospective exhibition at Musee de la Mode/Palais Galleria when its artistic director was Martin Margiela (working with Curator Alexandre Samson), the second black lingerie was featured on a mannequin and collected the same year by the Vogue Paris Foundation. Other conceptual designs from this same 1998 collection of jewelry were acquired by TheMet museum in Manhattan. Without the restriction of the use and function of clothing, the small uncreased print--on a card that can be removed from the interior-box bottom that it loosely spans--shows the buyer how to endlessly fashion unique tops using the structural-elastic lingerie as an undergarment for their own pre-worn button-down shirts. This is a more obvious example of the once avant-garde concept of anti-fashion upcycling that Martin Margiela introduced to challenge social and fashion-industry norms by the 1990s, which echos the revolutionary anti-art of Marcel Duchamp. Essentially, valuable art/fashion can be made from everyday vintage objects. While Duchamp did so in 1917 with a men's porcelain urinal titled "Fountain" attached to a gallery exhibition wall, they both made the point that it is the way that such items are reassembled that can make the result a progressive statement. What makes the print so special and worthy of framing for display is that, without words, the three numbered images on a single white card encapsulate the before-its-time fashion manifesto of Martin Margiela to recycle fashion in remarkable new wearable ways, such as harnessed by his unique lingerie. According to The New York Times in its 2021 feature-story that reflected on his radical fashion design and delved into his crossover art, Margiela "changed how we dressed in the 1990s", while his art embodies "the visionary man he has always been." At a turning-point shortly after Margiela designed this couture set in 1997, his personal manifesto became more difficult to accomplish in his fashion career as the new leader of France's historic luxury fashion-house Hermes, for which his first womenswear collection was presented for Autumn/Winter 1998. Frustrated by the limitations of the industrialized luxury trade and conglomerate conflicts with his closely guarded privacy, the famously "invisible" designer pre-maturely retired from the fashion industry in 2009 to independently build on his clever artistry in other mediums. Margiela continues to demonstrate what he often told his fashion teams: "The less you have, the more creative you are as a designer." This minimal finely-crafted lingerie without size or gender restriction--composed of adjustable "polya-elasthanne" straps with a clear anti-slip strip on the underside and three silver-plated metal double-rings--can be worn either as a concealed structural undergarment or as a visible jewelry-like body harness in appreciation of its meaning as a foundation for recycling fashion, pure form, and meaningful color. While the initial Maison Martin Margiela ready-to-wear brand tag until the late 1990s was a distinct corner-sewn unbranded white label accompanied by tags for origin and materials/care, the couture version for this lingerie is a single tiny white unbranded tag stitched in a line near the end of the waist strap, noting in English, "Made In France," with succinct material/care identification. The set's original white unbranded box and its white black-typed couture-identification sticker complete the "invisible-brand" aesthetic. We interpret the black-type codes on the aged box-sticker (“E98 ST HAUT; Struct Elas Blanc; 02; TU"): Spring 1998 Haute Couture; white structural-elastic garment; Artisanal Line 0 edition of two; one size only. The print, lingerie and box are in very good condition as shown in the photos with only one mark on the rear edge of the exterior box-lid. Although initially tried on by the sole owner to realize a restructured shirt, the lingerie body-harness was never worn. It was collected in Belgium at the Brussels boutique where Martin Margiela initially sold his brand with his founding business-partner Jenny Meirens since 1988. Prior, Margiela worked for several years as a fashion-design assistant to Parisian Jean Paul Gaultier. Both designers have since received independent museum retrospectives internationally--from Paris' Grand Palais and Musee Palais Galliera (The City of Paris Fashion Museum) to NYC's The Brooklyn Museum and Antwerp's MoMu. While others continue to try, Martin Margiela (b.1957) is the only leading fashion designer to have made a full-time transition to the commercial contemporary-art world with such highly valued works. As a rare revealing piece of both fashion and art history, the increasing value of this Maison Martin Margiela 1997...
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1990s French Maison Martin Margiela

MARTIN MARGIELA RUNWAY Replica '1970's evening dress'
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Jet-black jersey '1970's evening dress' designed by Margiela from the 'Replica' line dating to the early 2000’s although an almost identical dress was seen...
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Early 2000s North American Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela White Cotton Midi Dress, Size 44
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
- Crew neckline - Sleeveless style - Mid length - Silver tone real zip closure - Features side cut out with polka dot and striped pattern detail - Made in Italy
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela Coral Tee
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
A coral cotton tee from Maison Martin Margiela stands out with a single breast pocket that sits front and center.
Category

Early 2000s French Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela fashion for sale on 1stDibs.

Find an extraordinary range of authentic Maison Martin Margiela fashion available on 1stDibs. If you’re browsing our collection of unique vintage and designer fashion to elevate your daily look or to introduce new colors to the dazzling formal wear in your wardrobe, this designer’s body of work includes elements of red, blue, purple and other tones. Customers who are interested in this designer might also find the work of Stella McCartney, Emanuel Ungaro, and Donatella Versace appealing. On 1stDibs, find haute couture, vintage and designer Maison Martin Margiela fashion from top boutiques around the world. Maison Martin Margiela fashion prices can differ depending upon time period and other attributes. On 1stDibs, the price for these items starts at $60 and tops out at $38,481, while the average work can sell for $850.

Designers Similar to Maison Martin Margiela

Questions About Maison Martin Margiela
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    No, Maison Margiela is not owned by L’Oréal. The Italian company OTB Group owns Maison Margiela as of January 2022. L'Oréal is a separate French company. On 1stDibs, shop a range of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories from some of the world’s top sellers.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    John Galliano is currently creative director of the French fashion house Maison Margiela, previously called Maison Martin Margiela. In the past, he has been the creative director for Givenchy and Christian Dior. Browse a range of expertly vetted Maison Margiela pieces from top sellers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 21, 2024
    Yes, Maison Margiela is a luxury brand. Established by Belgian designer Martin Margiela in 1988, the fashion house is known for its avant-garde approach to design, and its runway shows often challenge prevailing style conventions. Many celebrities are fans of the brand, including Rihanna, Cardi B, Doja Cat, Paul Bettany, Megan Fox and Kendall Jenner. On 1stDibs, explore a selection of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Maison Martin Margiela, now simply called Maison Margiela, is a French fashion house founded in 1988. It was first founded by Belgian designer Martin Margiela and takes inspiration from avant-garde styling. On 1stDibs, find a range of authentic Maison Margiela pieces.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    The upscale sporty style of Maison Martin Margiela sneakers gives them versatile styling possibilities. While how you wear them is up to personal preference, they can be dressed up with a breezy sundress, paired with classic jeans and a tee, or dressed down with joggers and a tank. Shop a selection of Maison Margiela sneakers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    The key to spotting fake Maison Martin Margiela products is quality. The Maison Margiela brand is known for designer-level craftsmanship and materials. An authentic Maison Margiela product should have neat, even stitching, a crisp logo and high level of attention to detail. Shop an array of expertly vetted Maison Margiela pieces from top boutiques on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMarch 15, 2024
    Yes, Maison Margiela is well known. In fact, the fashion house's clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions in recent years. Founder Martin Margiela has gained acclaim for toying with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today through pieces like his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies and his Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels. On 1stDibs, shop a diverse assortment of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories.

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