Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.
Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)
Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.
One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.
Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.
On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts.
While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces. It’s certainly one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.
1960s Modernist Vintage Cartier
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold
1990s Retro Cartier
Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1950s Vintage Cartier
Citrine, Diamond, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Cartier
Diamond, White Gold
20th Century Cartier
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
2010s Contemporary Cartier
2010s Contemporary Cartier
21st Century and Contemporary Modernist Cartier
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Cartier jewelry & watches for sale on 1stDibs
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021A Cartier engagement ring can cost between $3,000 and $800,000. The price depends on the diamond's carat weight and quality.
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021A Cartier solitaire engagement ring price varies depending on material, stone, setting and caratage. Shop a variety of Cartier solitaire engagement rings on 1stDibs.com.
- What is a rolling ring?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertOctober 5, 2021A Rolling Ring is a trinity ring, also known as a Russian wedding band. It is a type of ring design that has three interlocking bands. These bands that form the ring are solid metal, which can be two-toned, tri-color, or gold. Find a range of antique and vintage rolling rings on 1tsDibs.
- Are Cartier watches automatic?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Most Cartier watches are quartz, but the iconic Tank watch is automatic. While quartz watches work due to a pre-installed battery, automatic watches use a spring system and are self-winding.
- Is Cartier cheaper in Paris?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Cartier pieces may be cheaper in Paris than they are in the U.S., but that's because of the exchange rate. Cartier doesn't price the pieces depending on the country.