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Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces
Emerald, Pearl, Ruby, Silver
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Opal, Gold, 18k Gold
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Antique Early 1900s Edwardian Cluster Rings
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum
Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel
Antique 15th Century and Earlier British Medieval Signet Rings
Carnelian, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1960s French More Jewelry
Bronze
Vintage 1910s Austrian Art Nouveau Brooches
Opal, Quartz, Silver, Enamel
Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Drop Necklaces
Diamond, Platinum
Antique 15th Century and Earlier Signet Rings
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces
Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s Unknown Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Ruby, Enamel, 18k Gold
Antique 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel, 18k Gold
Antique 1890s Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Ruby
Antique Early 1900s Unknown Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces
Diamond, Freshwater Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold
Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Engagement Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Antique 1890s French Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1920s Art Deco Cluster Rings
Diamond, Emerald, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Recent Sales
Antique Late 19th Century Art Nouveau More Rings
Lapis Lazuli, Malachite, 18k Gold
A Close Look at Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
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The first art and design movement of the 20th century was all about celebrating beauty of women and nature.